The 2025 Ultimate Guide: 7 Steps for Perfect Greenhouse Wiggle Wire Installation

Abstract

This comprehensive guide provides an in-depth examination of the principles and practices underpinning a successful greenhouse wiggle wire installation. It moves beyond a mere procedural manual to explore the subject with philosophical and scientific rigor, addressing the needs of a global audience from South America to Southeast Asia. The article posits that the wiggle wire system, composed of the spring wire and its corresponding lock channel, represents a critical technological advancement in controlled environment agriculture. It meticulously details the material science of the components, the physics of wind load and film tension, and the practical, step-by-step methodology for a durable and effective installation. The text analyzes the selection of tools and materials, emphasizing the rationale behind each choice. Furthermore, it offers specialized guidance tailored to diverse climatic conditions, such as high humidity, extreme heat, and significant wind pressure. By synthesizing engineering principles with agricultural best practices, this guide serves as an essential resource for both novice builders and professional greenhouse operators, aiming to foster a deeper understanding and mastery of securing greenhouse coverings for optimal crop protection and longevity.

Key Takeaways

• Proper frame preparation is the foundational first step for any successful installation.
• Select wiggle wire channels and fasteners appropriate for your specific climate and structural loads.
• Achieve a drum-tight finish on the greenhouse film to prevent wind damage and prolong its life.
• A methodical greenhouse wiggle wire installation ensures maximum durability against harsh weather.
• Regularly inspect and maintain the system to guarantee long-term structural integrity.
• Layering materials like shade cloth and insect nets is possible with the correct technique.

Table of Contents

• Understanding the Wiggle Wire System: More Than Just Wire
• Gathering Your Tools and Materials: An Arsenal for Success
• Step 1: Meticulous Preparation of the Greenhouse Frame
• Step 2: Installing the Wiggle Wire Channel with Precision
• Step 3: Draping and Positioning the Greenhouse Film
• Step 4: The Critical First Anchor – Securing the Initial Wiggle Wire
• Step 5: The Art of Tension – Achieving the Perfect Drum-Tight Finish
• Step 6: Completing the System and Managing Excess Material
• Step 7: The Final Inspection and a Commitment to Maintenance
• Regional and Climatic Considerations: Adapting to Your Environment
• Advanced Techniques: Beyond the Basic Installation
• Troubleshooting Common Greenhouse Wiggle Wire Installation Issues
• Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
• Conclusion: The Synthesis of Technique and Technology
• References

Understanding the Wiggle Wire System: More Than Just Wire

Before one can embark on the physical act of a greenhouse wiggle wire installation, it is of profound importance to first cultivate a deep, almost philosophical, appreciation for the system itself. To view the wiggle wire and its corresponding channel as mere hardware is to miss the elegance and ingenuity of their design. Let us consider this system not as a simple fastener, but as the essential membrane, the very skin, that mediates between the controlled, nurturing world within the greenhouse and the often chaotic, unpredictable forces of the natural world outside. It is a testament to human ingenuity, a solution born from the persistent need to create stable environments for agriculture in the face of nature’s formidable power. The system’s efficacy lies in its brilliant application of basic physics—friction, tension, and the even distribution of stress. When we understand these principles, the installation process transforms from a rote task into a thoughtful application of scientific knowledge.

The Anatomy of the System: Wire and Channel in Dialogue

At its core, the system consists of two components engaged in a constant, secure dialogue: the wiggle wire and the wiggle wire channel (often referred to as a lock channel or U-channel). The channel, typically extruded from aluminum or formed from galvanized steel, presents a recessed track. It is the fixed, foundational element, the unwavering framework that defines the boundaries of the covering. The wiggle wire, a piece of high-tensile spring steel bent into a continuous zig-zag pattern, is the active, dynamic element. When pressed into the channel over a layer of greenhouse film, the wire’s inherent outward spring force exerts continuous pressure against the walls of the channel. It is not a single point of pressure, but thousands of points distributed along its length. This distribution is the secret to its strength. Unlike staples or battens that create high-stress points vulnerable to tearing, the wiggle wire spreads the load, holding the plastic film with a grip that is both firm and forgiving. It is a mechanical embrace, designed to hold fast against the shearing force of wind without puncturing the delicate skin it is meant to protect.

Material Science: The Soul of the Components

The choice of materials for these components is not arbitrary; it is a deliberate decision rooted in an understanding of environmental stressors and the demands of longevity. Let’s explore the materials in greater detail.

Table 1: Comparison of Wiggle Wire and Channel Materials

The wiggle wire itself is typically a high-carbon spring steel, selected for its ‘memory’. It can be deformed to be pushed into the channel, but it possesses an intense desire to return to its original shape. This stored potential energy is what translates into a continuous, reliable holding force. The choice between a raw stainless steel finish and a PVC-coated one is a choice between ultimate durability and gentle protection. The PVC coating acts as a sacrificial layer, a soft intermediary that reduces the friction and abrasive wear on the polyethylene film, potentially extending the film’s life. This is a critical consideration, as the film is often the component with the shortest lifespan in the entire greenhouse assembly.

The channel, whether aluminum or galvanized steel, must be rigid and unyielding. Aluminum offers superior resistance to corrosion, a significant advantage in the humid environments of many parts of Southeast Asia or the coastal regions of South America. It is lightweight and easy to work with. Galvanized steel, on the other hand, offers brute strength and is often more economical. Its zinc coating provides a robust defense against rust, though this defense can be compromised by scratches or cuts during installation. When selecting your materials from leading greenhouse suppliers, you are not just buying parts; you are making a strategic decision based on your climate, your budget, and your long-term vision for your agricultural project.

Gathering Your Tools and Materials: An Arsenal for Success

The quality of any craft is a reflection not only of the artisan’s skill but also of the quality of their tools. A greenhouse wiggle wire installation is no different. Approaching this task with the correct, well-maintained tools is a prerequisite for efficiency, safety, and a professional result. An ill-suited tool can lead to frustration, damaged materials, and a compromised structure. Let us assemble our arsenal, understanding the specific role each tool plays in this delicate but demanding construction.

The Essential Toolkit

Think of this not as a shopping list, but as a collection of instruments, each with a purpose. Your primary tools will be for measuring, cutting, and fastening.

• Measuring Tape: This is your instrument of precision. A sturdy, long tape (at least 10 meters or 25 feet) is indispensable for laying out the channel locations accurately. Accuracy at this stage prevents myriad problems later.
• Variable-Speed Cordless Drill/Driver: This is the workhorse of the installation. A cordless model provides the freedom to move around the greenhouse frame without being tethered by a cord. The variable-speed function is paramount. Driving screws requires high torque at low speed to avoid stripping the screw head or damaging the channel. A clutch setting is also highly beneficial, as it allows you to set a consistent torque and prevent over-tightening, which can crush an aluminum channel or strip the hole in a wooden frame.
• Drill Bits and Driver Bits: You will need a set of drill bits suitable for piloting holes in your greenhouse frame (metal or wood) and a collection of driver bits that perfectly match the heads of your chosen fasteners (e.g., Phillips, hex-head). A magnetic bit holder is a small luxury that pays huge dividends, preventing dropped screws from the top of a ladder.
• Aviation Snips or Lineman’s Pliers: Wiggle wire often comes in pre-cut lengths, but you will invariably need to make custom cuts for corners or short sections. A sturdy pair of aviation snips or lineman’s pliers with a cutting edge is necessary to make clean cuts through the spring steel. Attempting to bend the wire back and forth until it breaks will weaken it and is not a recommended practice.
• Utility Knife with Extra Blades: A sharp utility knife is essential for trimming the excess greenhouse film after installation. A dull blade will tear and stretch the plastic, creating a jagged edge that can become a starting point for future rips. Change the blade frequently; a sharp blade is a safe and effective blade.
• Ladders or Scaffolding: Safety is non-negotiable. Ensure you have stable, appropriately sized ladders or, for larger structures, safe scaffolding to comfortably reach all areas of the greenhouse frame without over-reaching.
• Safety Glasses and Gloves: Protecting yourself is part of a professional approach. Safety glasses are essential to protect your eyes from metal shavings when drilling or cutting. Gloves will protect your hands from sharp edges on the channel and the tension of the wiggle wire.

Choosing Your Fasteners and Materials

The materials you select are just as important as the tools you use to install them. The primary choice here involves the screws that will hold the channel to the frame.

Table 2: Fastener Selection Guide for Wiggle Wire Channels

The choice of fastener is a dialogue between the wiggle wire channel and the greenhouse frame. For a metal frame, self-tapping screws are a marvel of efficiency, drilling their own pilot hole and cutting their threads in a single action. For a wooden frame, high-quality deck screws with a protective coating are ideal, designed to grip the wood fibers tenaciously. The length of the screw is critical; it must be long enough to pass through the channel and gain a deep, secure purchase in the structural member of the frame, not just the superficial covering.

Finally, we have the primary materials themselves: the high-quality wiggle wire and channel, and the greenhouse film. The film, typically a 6-mil (0.15mm) polyethylene, is a sophisticated product, often treated with UV inhibitors to slow its degradation from sunlight and anti-condensate layers to manage interior moisture. Handle this film with care. Before you even begin the installation, unroll it in a clean, grass-free area to inspect for any defects from shipping. Your preparation and choice of tools and materials set the stage. A meticulous approach here is an investment in the final quality and longevity of your greenhouse.

Step 1: Meticulous Preparation of the Greenhouse Frame

The first step in a successful greenhouse wiggle wire installation is an act of profound respect for the foundation. The greenhouse frame, whether it is fashioned from arched steel hoops, milled lumber, or extruded aluminum, is the skeleton upon which the entire structure’s integrity depends. To proceed without ensuring this skeleton is sound, clean, and ready to receive its skin is to build a future of frustration and failure. This preparatory stage is not a preliminary chore to be rushed through; it is the foundational moment that dictates the security and longevity of the final covering.

Structural Integrity Assessment: A Dialogue with Your Frame

Before a single piece of channel is placed, you must engage in a dialogue with your greenhouse frame. Walk its perimeter, both inside and out. Look and feel. Are all joints and connections secure? On a metal frame, check that all bolts are tight and welds are solid. On a wooden frame, look for any signs of rot, splitting, or weakness, especially at ground contact points and joints. Push against the frame in various places. Does it feel rigid and stable, or does it sway and flex excessively? Any significant movement now will be amplified tenfold when the frame is subjected to the force of a strong wind against a taut plastic film. Reinforce any weak points. Add bracing where needed. This is your only opportunity to strengthen the skeleton before it is clad. To ignore a wobbly frame at this stage is to invite the wind to find that weakness later, with potentially catastrophic results.

Creating a Flawless Surface: The Pursuit of Smoothness

Once you are confident in the structural soundness of the frame, your attention must turn to the surface itself—the very surface where the wiggle wire channel will sit. This surface must be as smooth and free of obstructions as possible. Any sharp points, burrs, or abrasive surfaces will become a point of friction against the greenhouse film. Over time, the constant, minute movements of the film caused by wind and temperature changes will allow that sharp point to abrade, weaken, and eventually puncture the plastic. Run your hand along all surfaces where the channel will be mounted. On a metal frame, this means checking for sharp weld splatter, burrs from cutting, or flaking rust. Use a metal file or a grinder with a flap disc to smooth these imperfections away. A moment with a file now can save you from a mysterious tear in your film a year from now. On a wooden frame, sand down any splinters or sharp edges. Pay special attention to the corners and peaks, where the film will be under the most tension and stress. The goal is to create a surface so smooth that the plastic film can rest against it without fear of abrasion. Consider applying a high-quality primer or paint to metal frames to provide an additional layer of protection against corrosion and create a smoother finish. For wooden frames, a good quality outdoor paint or sealant can prevent moisture from wicking into the wood from behind the channel, prolonging the life of the frame itself.

Cleaning and Clearing the Workspace

The final act of preparation is one of purification. The frame and the area around it must be clean. Remove any old plastic, staples, or fasteners from previous coverings. These remnants can interfere with the flat seating of the new channel and create pressure points under the new film. Brush away dirt, dust, and cobwebs. A clean surface ensures that the channel sits flush against the frame, creating a continuous, even grip. A clean workspace around the greenhouse is also a matter of safety and efficiency. Clear away any tools, debris, or obstacles that could cause you to trip or lose your footing while handling large, unwieldy sheets of greenhouse plastic. This act of cleaning is more than janitorial; it is about creating a controlled environment for the work to come, setting a standard of care and precision that will carry through the entire greenhouse wiggle wire installation process. By investing your time and attention in this foundational step, you are not merely preparing a frame; you are laying the groundwork for a durable, resilient, and productive growing environment.

Step 2: Installing the Wiggle Wire Channel with Precision

With the frame prepared, we move to the installation of the wiggle wire channel. This is the moment where the abstract plan becomes a physical reality. The placement of this channel is not merely a matter of attachment; it is an act of architectural definition. You are drawing the precise lines that will dictate the tension, security, and weather-tightness of the entire structure. Precision, foresight, and a methodical approach are the virtues required for this stage. Every measurement must be deliberate, and every fastener must be driven with purpose.

Layout and Measurement: The Blueprint for Security

Begin at the base of the greenhouse. The channel, often called a baseboard channel, must be installed along the entire perimeter of the structure. This forms the foundational anchor for the film. Measure and mark a consistent height from the ground to ensure the channel is level. A level baseboard is the starting point for an even and symmetrical pull on the film later. When you mount the channel along the arches or rafters, consistency is key. The channels should mirror each other on opposite sides of the structure to ensure an even pull. The most critical decision in this layout phase is the spacing of your fasteners. This is not a matter of guesswork. The spacing is a direct function of the anticipated wind load on your structure. In calm, protected areas, a screw every 18-24 inches (45-60 cm) might suffice. However, in regions known for high winds—the plains of Russia, coastal areas of South Africa, or regions prone to monsoons in Southeast Asia—that spacing must be reduced dramatically. A spacing of 12 inches (30 cm) or even less may be necessary. Placing a fastener within 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) of each end of every channel section is a non-negotiable rule. This prevents the ends from lifting or snagging the film. Remember, each screw is a point of resistance against the lifting force of the wind. It is far better to over-engineer your fastening than to watch your investment be torn apart by a storm.

The Art of Attachment: Securing the Channel to the Frame

Now, we begin attaching the channel. Start with a single piece of channel, place it against your guideline, and prepare to drive the first screw. If you are using self-tapping screws on a metal frame, use your variable-speed drill on a low-speed, high-torque setting. Apply firm, steady pressure to allow the screw’s tip to bite into the metal. Once it begins to cut, it will pull itself through. Drive it until the screw head is snug against the channel, but do not over-tighten. Over-tightening an aluminum channel can cause it to deform or “crush,” which can impede the insertion of the wiggle wire later. If you are fastening to a wood frame, pre-drilling a pilot hole slightly smaller than the screw’s diameter is a wise practice, especially in harder woods or near the end of a board, as it prevents the wood from splitting. As you install subsequent pieces of channel, ensure they are butted up tightly against each other, end to end. Gaps between channel sections are unacceptable. A gap creates a point of discontinuity in the grip, a place where the film is not secured. This small, unsecured section can begin to flap in the wind, and this flapping can propagate, leading to wear and eventual failure. Think of the channel as a continuous, unbroken line of defense. For end walls, the channel must be installed around the entire perimeter of the door frames and any ventilation openings. This ensures that every edge of the plastic film is securely locked down.

Navigating Curves and Corners

Greenhouses are rarely simple boxes. They have curves, arches, and corners, and the channel must follow these contours faithfully. For gentle curves, such as the arch of a hoop house, the channel sections (which are typically 6 to 6.5 feet or about 2 meters long) are usually flexible enough to follow the bend. Attach one end of the channel, then gently press the channel against the curve of the hoop as you place the remaining fasteners. The channel will conform to the radius naturally. For sharp corners, such as the peak of a gable or the corner of a rectangular structure, you must cut the channel. Use your aviation snips or a hacksaw to make a clean 45-degree miter cut. This allows two pieces of channel to meet and form a tight, professional-looking corner. Ensure that you place a fastener very close to each side of the cut to secure the corner firmly. Taking the time to make clean, accurate cuts at the corners not only looks better but also ensures a continuous and secure grip at these high-stress points. The meticulous installation of the wiggle wire channel is a slow, deliberate process. It is a measure of your patience and your commitment to quality. Once completed, you will have a perfect, unbroken framework, ready and waiting to receive the greenhouse film.

Step 3: Draping and Positioning the Greenhouse Film

This stage marks a significant transition in the construction process. We move from the rigid, unyielding world of metal frames and channels to the delicate, pliable realm of the greenhouse film. Handling this large expanse of plastic is an exercise in patience, coordination, and an awareness of the environment. The film is the heart of the greenhouse’s function, the transparent barrier that traps warmth and light. Its proper placement is crucial for its longevity and performance. An error at this stage can lead to wrinkles, uneven tension, or even damage to the film before it has even begun its service.

Choosing the Right Moment: A Dialogue with the Weather

The single most important factor in draping the greenhouse film is the weather. You must choose your moment wisely. The ideal day for this task is calm, with little to no wind. Wind is your greatest adversary. A large sheet of greenhouse plastic acts like a giant sail. Even a gentle breeze can make it incredibly difficult to control, turning it into a flailing, unmanageable monster. A strong gust can easily whip the film out of your hands, potentially tearing it on a sharp object or dragging it across the ground, causing abrasions. Beyond wind, consider the temperature. The ideal temperature is mild or temperate. Polyethylene film, like most plastics, expands when warm and contracts when cool. If you install the film on a very hot, sunny day, it will be in its most expanded state. As it cools down in the evening or during colder weather, it will contract and become extremely tight. This over-tensioning can put immense stress on the film, the wiggle wire, and the greenhouse frame itself, potentially leading to premature failure. Conversely, installing it on a very cold day means it will be in its most contracted state. When warmer weather arrives, the film will expand and become loose and saggy. This slack film will then flap in the wind, causing wear and reducing the stability of the structure. Therefore, seek a calm, overcast, and temperate morning—this is the golden hour for installing greenhouse film.

The Unfurling: A Coordinated Effort

Handling a large roll of greenhouse film is almost always a two-person job, and for larger structures, it may require four or more people. Before you begin, ensure the ground around the greenhouse is free of sharp rocks, sticks, or debris that could puncture the film. Unpack the roll of film on one side of the greenhouse (typically the leeward, or downwind, side). Identify the inside and outside of the film if it has special properties like an anti-condensate layer, which is always installed on the inside (facing the crops). This is usually marked by the manufacturer on the film itself. With one person (or team) on each end of the roll, carefully walk the film over the top of the greenhouse structure to the other side. Do not drag it across the frame. Lift it. Let it gently settle over the arches or rafters. The goal is to have the film draped over the structure, much like a blanket on a bed. Take your time. Communicate with your partners. The movements should be slow, deliberate, and coordinated.

Initial Positioning and Centering

Once the film is draped over the structure, the process of positioning begins. You need to ensure the film is centered, with an equal amount of excess film hanging down on all sides. Stand back from the structure and look at it from a distance. Does it look straight? Are the fold lines from the roll running parallel to the greenhouse ridges or hoops? Adjust the film by having your team gently pull or shift it as needed. Ensure you have enough excess film at the ends (the end walls) to wrap around the corners and be secured in the channels. A common mistake is to pull the film too tight in one direction, leaving insufficient material on the opposite side. It is better to have a generous amount of overlap—at least 1-2 feet (30-60 cm) of excess film beyond the wiggle wire channel on all sides. This gives you material to grip and pull when tensioning the film later, and it provides a margin for error. Once you are satisfied with the general position, you can use a few spring clamps or even a few short, temporary pieces of wiggle wire to hold the film loosely in place. This prevents it from shifting while you prepare for the next, most critical step: securing the first anchor point.

Step 4: The Critical First Anchor – Securing the Initial Wiggle Wire

We now arrive at a moment of profound significance in the greenhouse wiggle wire installation process. All the preparation of the frame, the precise placement of the channel, and the careful draping of the film have led to this point. The installation of the first piece of wiggle wire is the act that commits the film to the frame. It is the first permanent connection, the anchor that will serve as the reference point for all subsequent tensioning. The care and technique applied here will set the tone for the entire security of the covering. It is not a moment to be rushed. It requires feel, technique, and an understanding of how the wire and channel interact.

Choosing the Starting Point: A Strategic Decision

Where you begin the installation is a strategic choice, not an arbitrary one. The conventional wisdom, born from hard-won experience, is to start on the side of the greenhouse that faces the prevailing wind. By anchoring the windward side first, you create a solid, unyielding edge that will bear the brunt of the wind’s force. The rest of the film can then be pulled tautly over the structure, away from the wind, minimizing the chance of wind getting underneath the film during the installation process. Within that windward side, it is often best to start securing a central, straight section along a baseboard or hip board. Avoid starting in a corner. Corners are complex areas where tension pulls in multiple directions, and they are best dealt with after the main, straight runs have been established and tension has been set.

The Technique of “Walking In” the Wire

Securing the wiggle wire is not an act of brute force. You do not simply shove it straight down into the channel. Doing so can stretch or even tear the plastic film. The proper technique is a gentle, rocking motion, often described as “walking in” the wire. Hold a piece of wiggle wire, which is typically about 4 feet (1.2 meters) long, and start at one end. Place the end of the wire at the beginning of the channel section you intend to secure. Press one of the first “wiggles” into the channel with your thumb. You should feel a satisfying click or pop as it seats itself. Now, instead of pushing the rest of the wire straight down, work your way along its length, pressing down on one side of a wiggle, then the other, in a continuous back-and-forth motion. Your hands should move down the wire, rocking it into the channel. This technique allows the film to be gently captured between the wire and the channel walls without putting a direct, downward shearing force on it. As you move along, you should hear a series of soft clicks as the wire seats itself. The feel is just as important as the sound. A properly seated wire feels solid and secure, with no play or looseness.

The First Pull and Setting the Line

As you install this very first piece of wire, you are also establishing the first line of tension. Before “walking in” the wire, pull the plastic film gently to remove any large wrinkles in the immediate area. The goal here is not to achieve final tension, but simply to ensure the film is smooth as it enters the channel. Once that first 4-foot section of wire is in place, step back and look at it. It should have captured the film in a straight, clean line. This line will now serve as your anchor. From this initial point, you will work outwards, installing the subsequent pieces of wiggle wire along that same continuous channel, always “walking” them in with the same gentle, rocking motion. Ensure that the end of one wiggle wire is placed tightly against the start of the next one. There should be no gaps in the wire, just as there are no gaps in the channel. By the time you have completed this first, long run of channel (for instance, the entire length of the windward baseboard), you will have created a solid, immovable anchor from which the rest of the film can be stretched and tensioned.

Step 5: The Art of Tension – Achieving the Perfect Drum-Tight Finish

With the first side securely anchored, the character of the work changes. We now move from anchoring to stretching, from securing to tensioning. This is perhaps the most artistic part of the greenhouse wiggle wire installation. It is less about mechanical repetition and more about feel, balance, and understanding the elastic properties of the greenhouse film. The goal is to achieve a finish that is “drum-tight.” When you tap the surface of the film, it should produce a low, resonant sound, like the skin of a drum. A properly tensioned film is a strong film. It sheds wind and water effectively and contributes to the overall rigidity of the greenhouse structure. A loose, flapping film is a film that is destroying itself through constant motion and abrasion.

The Principle of Opposing Forces

The fundamental principle of tensioning is to work with opposing forces. You have securely anchored one side of the film. Now, you will move to the directly opposite side of the greenhouse. For example, if you first secured the windward baseboard, you will now move to the leeward baseboard. This approach ensures an even, balanced pull across the entire width of the structure. It prevents you from creating pockets of looseness or tightness in one quadrant of the roof. The process involves two distinct actions performed almost simultaneously: pulling the film to create tension, and then capturing that tension by installing the wiggle wire. This is where having a partner is invaluable. One person’s job is to pull the film, while the second person follows immediately behind, “walking in” the wiggle wire to lock that tension in place.

Techniques for Pulling and Stretching

The act of pulling the film requires technique. Do not just grab a small piece of the film’s edge and pull; this can stretch or tear the material. Instead, grab a large handful of the excess film. You can even roll the last foot or so of the film around a small piece of wood or a pipe to create a comfortable, secure handle that distributes the pulling force over a wider area. Pull firmly and steadily. How much tension is enough? This is where experience and feel come in. You should pull until most of the large wrinkles and sag disappear from the film. The surface should look smooth and taut. It is possible to over-tension, especially on a hot day, so the pull should be firm but not Herculean. As the first person pulls, the second person immediately begins installing the wiggle wire into the channel on this opposing side. Start in the middle and work your way out towards the ends. As you lock the wire in, you are capturing the tension created by your partner. Work in sections. Pull a 10-foot (3-meter) section taut, then install the two or three wiggle wires needed to secure it. Then move to the next section. This methodical, leapfrogging process ensures a consistent tension along the entire length of the structure.

Working the End Walls

Once the main body of the greenhouse film is tensioned and secured along its length (e.g., from baseboard to baseboard), you must address the end walls. This is often the most complex part of the installation, as you are dealing with corners, door frames, and possibly vents. The principle, however, remains the same. You will pull the film tautly over the end wall frame and secure it in the channels you installed earlier. Start at the top, at the peak of the end wall. Pull the film downwards and outwards, smoothing it over the surface of the end wall frame. Secure the top-most channel first. Then, work your way down the sides, always pulling the film taut before locking it in with the wiggle wire. The corners require special care. You will have an excess of bunched-up material at the corners. The goal is to fold this material neatly, like wrapping a gift, and secure it in the channel. A common technique is to create a single, neat “hospital corner” fold, pull it taut, and then secure it with the wiggle wire. You may need to layer two pieces of wiggle wire in the same channel at the corners to hold the extra thickness of the folded plastic securely. Take your time on the end walls. A neat, taut finish here is critical for both appearance and wind resistance.

Step 6: Completing the System and Managing Excess Material

The greenhouse is now fully clad, its skin pulled taut and secured along every edge. The structure has transformed from a bare skeleton into a functional enclosure. This sixth step is one of completion, refinement, and finality. It involves securing any remaining areas, addressing layers of material, and, most satisfyingly, trimming away the excess film. This is where the project takes on its finished, professional appearance. It is a step that requires attention to detail, ensuring that no loose ends remain to compromise the integrity of the work.

Securing All Remaining Edges and Layers

Walk the entire perimeter of your greenhouse one more time. Double-check that every inch of the wiggle wire channel that is meant to hold the primary film covering is now filled with wiggle wire. Have you secured the film around the door frames? Around the ventilation fan openings? Along the hip boards and ridgepole? Any edge left unsecured is a potential point of entry for wind, which can cause catastrophic failure. This is also the stage where you would add any additional layers, such as a second layer of poly for inflation or an exterior shade cloth. The process is identical to installing the first layer of film. The shade cloth or second poly layer is draped over the structure, pulled taut, and then secured in the same wiggle wire channel as the first layer. Most high-quality channels, like those from a reputable company such as the one detailed on their company information page, are designed to accommodate multiple layers of material and at least two, sometimes even three, wiggle wires in the same track. This versatility is one of the system’s greatest strengths. When layering, you simply press the new wiggle wire into the channel on top of the first one. The process requires a bit more force, but the principle of “walking it in” still applies.

The Satisfying Act of Trimming

With every wire in place and every layer secured, you are left with flaps of excess plastic hanging from all sides of the greenhouse. It is time to trim this excess away. This act is not just for aesthetics; it is also functional. Excess film can collect water, dirt, and debris. It can flap in the wind, creating noise and unnecessary wear on the secured portion of the film. The tool for this job is a very sharp utility knife. A new, sharp blade is essential. A dull blade will snag, pull, and tear the plastic, creating a jagged edge that can easily propagate into a long rip. The cut should be made neatly and precisely. A common and effective technique is to run the blade along the outside edge of the wiggle wire channel, using the metal edge of the channel itself as a guide. This leaves a clean, straight cut about a quarter-inch (about 0.5 cm) away from the channel opening. Be careful not to cut too close, as this could compromise the film’s grip inside the channel. As you cut, pull the excess film away from the structure with your other hand to keep it taut, which facilitates a cleaner cut. Work slowly and methodically. Take pride in creating a clean, finished line. This final trim is the visual confirmation of a job well done.

Final Cleanup and Material Disposal

The final part of this step is to clean the site. Gather all the trimmed excess plastic. Polyethylene film is a recyclable material in many regions, so check with your local waste management authority about recycling options. Collect any stray screws, metal shavings from drilling, or offcuts of wiggle wire channel. Leaving metal debris on the ground around a greenhouse is a safety hazard and can lead to flat tires on wheelbarrows or other equipment. A clean worksite is the hallmark of a professional, whether you are a commercial grower or a home enthusiast. This final tidying up is not just about cleanliness; it is an act of closure on the construction phase, preparing the greenhouse for its true purpose: nurturing life.

Step 7: The Final Inspection and a Commitment to Maintenance

The physical labor of the greenhouse wiggle wire installation is now complete. The frame is clad, the film is taut, and the excess has been trimmed. It is tempting at this moment to declare victory and walk away. However, the final and perhaps most crucial step for ensuring long-term success is to engage in a process of critical inspection and to make a conscious commitment to ongoing maintenance. A greenhouse is not a static object; it is a dynamic structure, constantly interacting with the forces of sun, wind, and rain. A relationship of care and observation must now begin.

The Post-Installation Inspection: A Critical Eye

Immediately after the installation is complete, and then again after a few days, you must perform a thorough inspection. The first few days are a settling period. The film may relax slightly, and the frame may adjust to the new tension. Walk the entire structure with a critical eye.

• Check the Tension: Tap the film in various places. Does it still have that drum-like resonance? Or has it loosened in some areas? Pay special attention to large, unsupported roof sections. Some minor loosening is normal, but significant sagging needs to be addressed.
• Examine the Wiggle Wires: Look closely at the wiggle wires within their channels. Are they all fully seated? Sometimes, a wire that was not “walked in” perfectly can pop out slightly at one end. If you see any wire that is not flush and secure, use your hands to press it firmly back into place.
• Inspect for Wrinkles and Folds: Look for any significant wrinkles that may have formed, especially near the corners. While minor creases are cosmetic, large wrinkles can collect water or create areas that flap in the wind, leading to abrasion.
• Look for Points of Stress: Examine the film where it passes over corners, peaks, or any part of the frame. Do you see any signs of excessive stretching or discoloration? This could indicate a sharp edge on the frame that was missed during preparation.

This inspection is your final quality control check. It is far easier to make a small adjustment now—to re-tension a section or smooth out a fold—than it is to repair a major failure later.

The Philosophy of Re-Tensioning

It is a common and recommended practice to re-tension the greenhouse film after a week or two, and then perhaps again after the first major change in seasons. Why is this necessary? The polyethylene film has a degree of plastic deformation, or “creep.” Under the initial tension, it will stretch slightly over time. Temperature cycles will also cause it to expand and contract. Re-tensioning accommodates this initial settling. The process is straightforward. On one side of the greenhouse (preferably a side that is easy to access), you will remove the wiggle wires from a long section of channel. With the wires removed, pull the film taut again, just as you did during the initial installation, to take up the slack that has developed. Then, re-install the wiggle wires to lock in the new, higher tension. This single act of re-tensioning can significantly increase the lifespan of the film and the overall storm-worthiness of your greenhouse.

A Schedule of Vigilance: Long-Term Maintenance

A greenhouse requires a commitment to observation. Create a simple maintenance schedule for yourself.

• Monthly Walk-Around: Once a month, take a quick walk around your greenhouse specifically to look at the covering. Check that all wires are still seated. Look for any small rips or punctures, which can often be repaired with specialized greenhouse repair tape.
• After Every Major Storm: Wind and hail are the greatest enemies of a greenhouse. After any significant weather event, perform a thorough inspection. A small problem created by a storm can become a big problem in the next one if left unaddressed.
• Annual Cleaning: At least once a year, clean the greenhouse film. Dirt, dust, and algae can accumulate on the surface, reducing the amount of light that reaches your plants. Use a soft brush and a specialized greenhouse cleaning solution or a simple mix of mild soap and water. Never use harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners, as they can damage the UV-inhibiting properties of the film.

This ongoing maintenance is not a burden; it is a partnership with your structure. By remaining vigilant, you ensure that your greenhouse remains a secure, efficient, and productive environment for many years to come. Your initial investment of labor in a proper greenhouse wiggle wire installation is protected and maximized by this ongoing commitment to care.

Regional and Climatic Considerations: Adapting to Your Environment

A greenhouse is an attempt to create a universal spring, a pocket of ideal growing conditions shielded from the excesses of the local climate. However, the structure itself stands firmly within that local climate and must be built to withstand its specific challenges. A greenhouse design that is perfectly adequate for the temperate fields of Western Europe may fail spectacularly in the face of a Russian winter, a Middle Eastern heatwave, or a Southeast Asian monsoon. The greenhouse wiggle wire installation, as the critical interface between the structure and its environment, must be thoughtfully adapted to these regional realities. Success depends on moving beyond a one-size-fits-all approach and engaging in a dialogue with your specific climate.

High Wind Environments (Coastal South Africa, Russian Steppes)

In regions characterized by powerful, sustained winds or strong gusts, the primary force you are fighting is uplift. The wind flowing over the curved surface of a greenhouse creates a low-pressure zone, similar to the principle of an airplane wing, that tries to lift the film off the structure.

• Reduced Fastener Spacing: This is the most critical adaptation. The standard 18-24 inch (45-60 cm) spacing for channel fasteners is inadequate. You must reduce this to 12 inches (30 cm), or even 8-10 inches (20-25 cm) in the most extreme conditions. Every fastener is an anchor point, and more anchors create a more resilient system.
• Structural Reinforcement: Ensure the greenhouse frame itself is robust. Wind braces (corner braces and cross braces) are not optional; they are essential.
• Double Wiggle Wire: In the most vulnerable areas, such as along the windward-facing edges and over the peak, consider using two wiggle wires in the same channel. This doubles the gripping force on the film, providing a significant safety margin.
• Windbreaks: The intelligent placement of natural or artificial windbreaks (such as a line of trees or a fence) can reduce the wind speed hitting the greenhouse by up to 50%, dramatically lowering the stress on the entire structure.

High Heat and UV Exposure (Middle East, Arid regions of South America)

In hot, sunny climates, your primary adversaries are heat and ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UV radiation relentlessly attacks the polymer chains of the polyethylene film, causing it to become brittle and fail.

• High-Quality, UV-Stabilized Film: Do not economize on the greenhouse film. You must select a film specifically rated for high UV environments, often with a multi-year warranty (e.g., 4-year or 5-year film). These films contain advanced UV inhibitor packages that protect the plastic.
• Use of Shade Cloth: Integrating a shade cloth is often a necessity not just for the plants, but for the structure itself. A shade cloth installed over the primary poly film can reduce the film’s temperature and block a significant portion of the UV radiation, extending its life. The wiggle wire system excels here, as the shade cloth can be secured in the same channel as the poly film.
• PVC-Coated Wiggle Wire: The intense heat can make the plastic film softer and more susceptible to abrasion. A PVC-coated wiggle wire, as noted by sources like zipgrow.com, provides a smoother, less abrasive surface against the hot plastic, reducing the chance of wear at the contact points.
• Proper Ventilation Design: A greenhouse in a hot climate must be designed for maximum passive ventilation. Roll-up sides, secured with wiggle wire channels, are an excellent way to allow heat to escape. The ability to easily remove and reinstall the wiggle wire makes this system ideal for operable vents.

High Humidity and Rainfall (Southeast Asia, Tropical South America)

In tropical regions with high humidity and heavy rainfall, the main challenges are corrosion, water management, and disease pressure.

• Corrosion-Resistant Materials: This is non-negotiable. Aluminum wiggle wire channels are far superior to galvanized steel in these environments, as they are virtually immune to rust. For the wire itself, stainless steel offers the ultimate protection, though high-quality, thickly-coated PVC wire can also perform well. Fasteners must also be stainless steel or have a high-quality ceramic or polymer coating. A standard zinc-plated screw will rust in a matter of months.
• Drum-Tight Tension for Water Shedding: A perfectly tensioned film is critical for shedding heavy rainfall. Any sagging or loose areas will become pools for water to collect. The weight of this pooled water can stretch and damage the film and even compromise the greenhouse frame. Ensure the structure has an adequate pitch or curve to promote runoff.
• Gutter-Connected Structures: For larger operations, connecting multiple greenhouses with gutters is an effective way to manage vast amounts of rainwater. The wiggle wire channel is used to secure the film into a special “gutter-connect” profile, creating a weather-tight seal.
• Insect and Pest Exclusion: High humidity often correlates with high pest pressure. The wiggle wire system is ideal for securing fine-mesh insect netting in addition to the main poly film, often in the same channel, to create a sealed environment that excludes pests.

By thoughtfully considering these regional factors, you transform the greenhouse wiggle wire installation from a generic procedure into a bespoke solution, intelligently designed to thrive in its specific place in the world.

Advanced Techniques: Beyond the Basic Installation

Once you have mastered the fundamental principles of the greenhouse wiggle wire installation, a world of advanced applications opens up. The wiggle wire system is not merely a static fastener for a single layer of plastic; it is a versatile and dynamic tool that allows for sophisticated environmental control and multi-functional coverings. These advanced techniques elevate a simple greenhouse into a high-performance growing machine, adaptable to changing seasons and diverse agricultural needs.

Double-Layer Inflation Systems

One of the most significant upgrades for a greenhouse, especially in climates with cold winters or for growers seeking maximum energy efficiency, is a double-layer inflation system. This involves using two layers of greenhouse film, separated by a small air gap that is kept pressurized by a blower fan. This trapped layer of air acts as an excellent insulator, dramatically reducing heat loss—by as much as 30-40%. This can lead to substantial savings on heating costs. The wiggle wire system is perfectly suited for this application.

• Installation: The two layers of film are installed simultaneously. They are laid over the structure together and secured in the same wiggle wire channel with a single piece of wiggle wire. Because the channel is designed to hold multiple layers, this presents no issue. It is important to ensure both layers are pulled with reasonably equal tension.
• The Blower Fan: A small, low-power squirrel cage blower fan is installed, typically near the base of the greenhouse. A hole is cut through the inner layer of plastic, and the fan outlet is attached and sealed with repair tape. The fan constantly pumps a small amount of outside air into the space between the two layers, keeping them inflated like a pillow. The pressure should be just enough to keep the layers separated (about 0.2 to 0.4 inches of water column pressure), not enough to put significant strain on the film.
• Benefits: Besides the profound insulation benefits, the inflated layers create a very taut, rigid covering. This makes the greenhouse extremely resistant to wind damage, as the film has no ability to flap or ripple. The inner layer also stays warmer, which can reduce condensation buildup.

Integrating Shade Cloth and Insect Netting

The ability to layer different materials is a hallmark of the wiggle wire system’s versatility. This allows growers to manage light levels and pest pressure with precision.

• Seasonal Shade Cloth: In many regions, full sun is desirable in the spring but excessive in the summer. A shade cloth can be installed seasonally over the top of the main greenhouse film. You simply drape the cloth, pull it taut, and secure it with a second wiggle wire placed in the same channel that is already holding the poly film. At the end of the season, the wire and cloth can be easily removed and stored without disturbing the main covering. This adaptability is a significant advantage over permanently-painted shade compounds.
• Insect Netting for Vents and Roll-up Sides: Pest exclusion is critical for many high-value crops. For greenhouses with roll-up sides or other vents, insect netting can be installed as a permanent barrier. The netting is attached to the frame around the vent opening using its own dedicated wiggle wire channel. This allows the main poly film of the roll-up side to be opened for ventilation while the insect net remains in place, providing a constant defense against pests.

Roll-Up Sidewalls: The Key to Ventilation

Natural ventilation is the most energy-efficient way to control greenhouse temperature. Roll-up sidewalls are a simple and highly effective method for achieving this. The wiggle wire system is integral to their construction.

• Construction: The main greenhouse film is installed and secured in the channels at the top of the sidewall (the hip board) and along the vertical end-wall frames. However, it is left unattached at the baseboard. Instead, the bottom edge of the film is attached to a “roll bar,” which is typically a length of galvanized steel pipe. This attachment is made by folding the film around the pipe and securing it to itself using a special “snap-on” or “zip-cap” channel, or in some cases, another length of wiggle wire channel fastened directly to the roll bar.
• Operation: A simple hand-crank mechanism or a more sophisticated automated gear motor is used to turn the roll bar. As the bar turns, the greenhouse film winds around it, neatly and evenly raising the sidewall to allow for ventilation.
• The Wiggle Wire’s Role: The wiggle wire channels along the top and vertical edges provide the fixed, secure anchor points from which the movable wall operates. The system’s ability to create a perfect, air-tight seal when the wall is rolled down is critical for maintaining a controlled environment when ventilation is not desired.

These advanced techniques demonstrate that a proper greenhouse wiggle wire installation is not just an end in itself, but a gateway to a more dynamic, responsive, and efficient system of controlled environment agriculture.

Troubleshooting Common Greenhouse Wiggle Wire Installation Issues

Even with the most meticulous preparation and execution, challenges can arise during a greenhouse wiggle wire installation or in the months that follow. Understanding the cause of these common problems is the first step toward an effective solution. This section serves as a diagnostic guide, helping you to identify the root cause of an issue and implement the correct remedy, ensuring the long-term health of your greenhouse skin.

Problem: Wiggle Wire Keeps Popping Out of the Channel

This is a frustrating and potentially serious issue, as a dislodged wire means a loss of tension and a breach in security. The cause is rarely a faulty wire.

• Root Cause 1: Improper Installation Technique. The most common reason is that the wire was not properly “walked in” using the back-and-forth rocking motion. If it was simply forced straight down, it may not have seated correctly behind the channel’s locking edges.
• Solution 1: Remove the wire from the affected section. Inspect the channel to ensure it is not damaged or crushed. Re-install the wire, paying very close attention to the gentle, rocking “walking in” technique. You should feel and hear it click into place along its entire length.
• Root Cause 2: Damaged or Deformed Channel. An over-tightened screw may have crushed the aluminum channel slightly, narrowing the opening and preventing the wire from seating deeply enough.
• Solution 2: Remove the wire and the film from the area. Inspect the channel. If it is deformed, you may be able to gently pry it back into its original shape with a flat-head screwdriver. If it is severely damaged, the best course of action is to replace that section of channel.
• Root Cause 3: Excessive Layers. You may be trying to force too many layers of thick material (e.g., two layers of poly plus a thick shade cloth) into a channel not designed for that capacity.
• Solution 3: Check the manufacturer’s specifications for your channel. If you have exceeded its capacity, you may need to install a second, parallel channel nearby to hold the additional layers.

Problem: Greenhouse Film Tears Near the Channel

A tear in the film, especially right at the point of attachment, is a critical failure that must be addressed immediately.

• Root Cause 1: Sharp Edges on the Frame or Channel. This is the most likely culprit. A burr on the metal frame, a sharp corner on the channel cut, or a rough weld that was not smoothed down during preparation is abrading the film.
• Solution 1: This requires a more involved repair. You will need to remove the wiggle wire and pull the film back from the area. Identify and eliminate the sharp edge using a metal file or sandpaper. The tear in the film must then be repaired using high-quality greenhouse repair tape, applying it to both the inside and outside of the clean, dry film. Then, re-secure the film.
• Root Cause 2: Over-Tensioning. If the film was pulled excessively tight during installation, especially on a hot day, the stress concentrated at the channel can be enough to cause a tear.
• Solution 2: This is difficult to fix after the fact, but it highlights the importance of proper tensioning. If the problem is widespread, you may need to wait for a temperate day, release the tension along one entire side, and re-secure the film with slightly less tension.

Problem: Water Pools on the Greenhouse Roof

Large pools of water, or “ponds,” on the roof are a serious danger. The weight of the water can stretch the film beyond recovery and can even damage the greenhouse frame.

• Root Cause 1: Insufficient Film Tension. This is the primary cause. If the film is slack, any slight depression will become a gathering point for rainwater.
• Solution 1: The film must be re-tensioned. Following the procedure outlined in Step 7, wait for a calm, temperate day, release the wiggle wires along one side (usually a baseboard), pull all the slack out of the film, and re-secure it.
• Root Cause 2: Inadequate Frame Slope or Spacing. The frame itself may not have a steep enough pitch to shed water effectively. Alternatively, the distance between the arches or rafters may be too wide, allowing the film to sag in the middle regardless of tension.
• Solution 2: If re-tensioning doesn’t solve the problem, you may have a structural issue. A short-term fix can be to run a tensioned wire or strap lengthwise down the greenhouse, just under the film, to help “lift” the sagging area. A long-term solution might involve adding more rafters or purlins to the frame to reduce the unsupported spans.

Problem: Wrinkles Persist After Installation

While minor wrinkles are cosmetic, large, deep wrinkles can indicate an underlying issue.

• Root Cause 1: Uneven Pulling During Tensioning. If the film was pulled harder in one area than another, it can create diagonal wrinkles pointing towards the area of highest tension.
• Solution 1: The only way to fix this properly is to release the tension on the side that was secured last, smooth the film out, and re-secure it, paying close attention to achieving an even, balanced pull across the entire width.
• Root Cause 2: Film Not Centered Properly. If the film was not centered correctly before the first anchor was installed, it can be difficult to pull the wrinkles out as you will be pulling against the grain of the material.
• Solution 2: This is a mistake that is very difficult to correct without starting over. It underscores the importance of the initial draping and positioning stage (Step 3). A small investment of time in centering the film perfectly can save a great deal of frustration later.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. How long does greenhouse wiggle wire last?

The lifespan of wiggle wire depends on the material. High-quality PVC-coated wire can last 5-7 years or more, while stainless steel wire can last for decades. The channel itself, especially aluminum, will typically outlast many changes of the greenhouse film, often lasting 20 years or more. The key factor is the environmental conditions, particularly UV exposure and humidity.

2. Can I install wiggle wire by myself?

While it is physically possible to do a small greenhouse alone, it is highly discouraged. The most difficult steps, draping the large film and tensioning it, are significantly easier, safer, and result in a better finish with at least two people. For larger structures, a team of three or four is ideal.

3. What is the difference between single and double channel wiggle wire track?

A single channel has one track for securing wire. A double channel has two tracks side-by-side. This is extremely useful for applications like securing the main cover in one channel and an insect screen or shade cloth in the adjacent one. It is also invaluable at the ends of a gutter-connect range or for creating complex seals around large doors.

4. How tight should the greenhouse film be after a greenhouse wiggle wire installation?

The goal is a “drum-tight” finish. When you tap it, it should be taut and make a low, resonant sound. It should not have significant sags or be able to flap in the wind. However, be cautious not to over-tension it, especially on a hot day, as the film will shrink and become even tighter when it cools, putting stress on the structure.

5. Can I reuse wiggle wires?

Yes, high-quality wiggle wires can typically be removed and reinstalled several times. This is one of the system’s advantages, allowing for easy film replacement. Over many years and multiple installations, the wire may lose some of its spring tension. If a wire feels “soft” or does not seat securely, it is best to replace it.

6. What is the best way to handle corners with wiggle wire?

For the frame corners, you should miter-cut the channel at a 45-degree angle for a clean fit. For the film at the corners, you will have excess material. The best practice is to create a neat, single fold (like a “hospital corner” when making a bed), pull it taut, and then secure the folded layers into the channel. You may need to use two wiggle wires in the same channel at the corner to hold the extra thickness securely.

7. My greenhouse frame is made of PVC pipe. Can I still use wiggle wire?

Yes, but with caution. Wiggle wire channels can be attached to PVC frames, but you must use appropriate fasteners (e.g., bolts that go all the way through the pipe with washers and nuts on the other side) as standard screws may not hold well. The main concern is that many PVC frames are not rigid enough to support a properly tensioned film. The tension can cause the PVC frame to bend or deform. The system works best on rigid wood or metal frames.

Conclusion: The Synthesis of Technique and Technology

The journey of a greenhouse wiggle wire installation, when undertaken with care and understanding, is far more than a simple construction project. It is a profound act of synthesis. It is the synthesis of robust technology—the elegantly simple physics of the spring wire and channel—with meticulous human technique. It represents the fusion of a deep respect for the power of the natural world with the ingenuity required to mediate its extremes. We have seen that success is not found in a single action, but in a continuous chain of deliberate choices and careful executions, from the foundational preparation of the frame to the final, vigilant inspection.

A correctly installed wiggle wire system is a silent testament to professionalism. It provides an unwavering, distributed grip that protects the delicate greenhouse film from the shearing force of the wind, the weight of the rain, and the relentless passage of seasons. It allows for the creation of sophisticated, multi-layered environments, enabling growers to fine-tune light, temperature, and pest control with unparalleled precision. From the high-humidity tropics of Southeast Asia to the windswept plains of Russia, the principles remain the same, even as the specific material choices and installation details are adapted to meet local challenges.

Ultimately, the goal of this entire process is to create a space of sanctuary and productivity. The greenhouse, sealed and secured by its network of wire and channel, becomes a vessel for growth. The quality of the installation directly translates into the security of the crops within and the peace of mind of the grower. By embracing the philosophy of precision, patience, and foresight outlined in this guide, you are not simply building a structure; you are investing in a more stable, predictable, and fruitful relationship with the world you cultivate.

References

Build My Own Greenhouse. (n.d.). Wiggle wire poly lock. Retrieved from https://www.buildmyowngreenhouse.com/catalog/wiggle-wire-poly-lock/

Connecticut Greenhouse Company. (n.d.). Wiggle wire / zigzag wire (bundle of 50). Retrieved from https://ctgreenhouse.com/wigglewire/

Farm Plastic Supply. (n.d.). Greenhouse wiggle wire & wiggle wire lock channel. Retrieved from https://farmplasticsupply.com/spring-lock-and-channel

Fenglong Technology Co., Ltd. (n.d.). Greenhouse construction materials and equipment supplier. Retrieved from https://www.wigglewires.com/

Snyder, R. L. (2018). Understanding and preventing greenhouse covering damage. Penn State Extension. Retrieved from https://extension.psu.edu/understanding-and-preventing-greenhouse-covering-damage

University of Massachusetts Amherst. (2016). Greenhouse glazing. UMass Amherst Agriculture & Landscape Program. Retrieved from https://ag.umass.edu/greenhouse-floriculture/fact-sheets/greenhouse-glazing

ZipGrow Team. (2014, July 14). Wiggle wire and temperature control in a greenhouse. ZipGrow Inc. Retrieved from https://zipgrow.com/using-and-installing-wiggle-wire-greenhouse/